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Farmers market report: Kale is in season. We have recipes

Bunches of Tuscan kale at the farmers market.
(David Karp / For The Times)
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What’s in season: While kale can be found year-round at most supermarkets, this member of the cabbage family prefers colder weather and is generally in season through the winter months. It’s known for its ruffled leaves on long, thick stalks, with colors ranging from that include shades of green, soft violet, bright red and hints of blue depending on the type. Beyond the common green kale found at most grocery stores, varieties include frilly flowering kale, red-stemmed Russian kale, and Tuscan kale, also known as cavolo nero, black and dinosaur kale.

What to cook: Known for its tough texture, kale leaves should be softened before serving. Remove the stems and cook kale, sauteing torn leaves until wilted and tender in olive oil with a touch of garlic for a simple side. Or slowly simmer kale in soups or stews, or bake in gratins; the lower, longer cooking times bring out the sweeter flavor in the leaves. If serving as part of a salad, massage torn or cut leaves with vinaigrette or oil and salt until the leaves are wilted and tender; this softens the leaves similar to cooking and removes the toughness before serving.

Check out some of our favorite kale recipes »

What’s on the horizon: Citrus varieties including pomelos and grapefruit, generally in season during the late winter months and early spring, are showing up.

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ITALIAN SAUSAGE AND KALE GRATIN

Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes | Serves 6 to 8

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound fresh mild Italian sausage, casings removed and crumbled

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 bunches (about 1 pound) kale, stemmed and torn into large pieces

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/3 cup flour

2 cups milk

8 ounces fresh goat cheese

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

3 tablespoons melted butter

1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs (such as a combination of parsley, oregano and basil)

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large, heavy-bottom saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Stir in the sausage and cook until browned on all sides and cooked through, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the wine and cook, scraping the flavoring from the bottom of the pan. Continue to cook until the wine reduces and is mostly evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium.

4. Stir in the kale, one handful at a time. Cook the kale, stirring it in with the sausage, until it begins to wilt and turn a bright green. Continue adding kale by the handful until it is all added to the saute pan and is just wilted. Do not overcook the kale. Remove from heat and set the pan aside.

5. In a large saucepan, melt one-half cup (1 stick) butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour to form a roux. Slowly add the milk, whisking constantly to get rid of any lumps. Bring the mixture to a simmer, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

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6. Crumble the goat cheese into the sauce and whisk until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth, then stir in the sausage and kale. Remove from heat.

7. Spoon the mixture into a shallow, 2-quart gratin dish.

8. In a medium bowl, combine the Parmigiano-Reggiano, bread crumbs and minced fresh herbs. Pour over the 3 tablespoons melted butter and stir until the butter is evenly distributed to form the topping.

9. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the sausage and kale mixture.

10. Bake the gratin until the topping is golden-brown and the filling is bubbly, about 30 minutes.

11. Cool slightly before serving.

Each of 8 servings: 494 calories; 14 grams protein; 15 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 40 grams fat; 21 grams saturated fat; 85 mg cholesterol; 4 grams sugar; 600 mg sodium.

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noelle.carter@latimes.com

@noellecarter

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